We had a good drive up to Norfolk. The sun was out and the countryside looked magnificent. We managed NOT to get lost in Essex as we normally do. The roads around Chelmsford defeat us every time so we kept well away and didn’t desert the M11 until we were near Bishop’s Stortford. Beside the road I was fascinated to see the village name, Ugley, and loved the descriptive name of this hostelry:

THE BEAUTIFUL UGLEY CHEQUERS
We passed through the wonderfully named Stansted Mountfitchet which has a very interesting Saxon village (complete with suitably attired “villagers”) and an excellent toy museum.
I wanted to see Saffron Walden and, because of all our mistakes before, never had. It is a fascinating town with some wonderful buildings, particiularly those with pargetted walls…

Saffron Walden Church
However, no time to linger and we took the turning to the Saxon town of Thaxted, thinking we might as well go through it again as it’s such a perfect town. I didn’t realise that Saffron Walden was actually several miles north of Thaxted, however, and so we actually went south-east instead of north-west. Never mind, Thaxted always deserves a detour.
We parked in the centre of the wide Town Street, just outside the house where Gustav Holst had lived, and ate our lunch, watching all the comings and goings in and out of the very individual shops – no chain stores here! What a delightful place to live. From here we drove to Ely and I managed to capture a small part of it framed by some autumn leaves.
Soon we were driving through the Fenland villages of Outwell and Upwell with their drainage channels from the River Nene running through the centre.
At Walpole St Andrew we were greeted as old friends at our orchard campsite and settled down for the night amongst the apple trees.
Wednesday 4th October…
Today we indulged in a cooked breakfast for a change and then made our leisurely way up the North Norfolk coast via Heacham to give Alfie a run on the beach. A breeze had got up but we weren’t really prepared for the strong gusts as we walked beside The Wash.
The best thing was Alfie’s reaction to the sandy beach. It has been a year since he was last here and he went absolutely bananas – rushing around in complete ecstasy – I don’t think he noticed the wind at all!
Unlike last year, we weren’t lucky with many bird sightings – just a few Oyster Catchers, various Gulls and a lone Grey Plover but anyway it was very difficult to keep a camera still. Some way out was strange fishing boat sitting in the mud while the crew were digging in the shallow water – presumably for shellfish of some kind (see the header image).

Do I look battered?
We walked along for a while but decided to turn around at the jetty and, heads down and hands in pockets, struggled our way back long the beach and back to Bessie. I think the only one who really enjoyed the walk was Alfie! He has done nothing but sleep ever since!
Back in Bessie we decided to drive along the coast to that old favourite, Brancaster Staithe, where the weather was equally rough but of course we can birdwatch from the comfort and warmth of Bessie and there are always the fresh cockles of course! Just a few of the photos we took, all of which look as though they were taken in black and white or sepia – the tide was low but the waders were enjoying the tit-bits in the mud!
The forecast for tomorrow is pretty good and hopefully our photos will be more colourful…
I love the pretty Saxon villages. Having been to Brancaster Staithe in the summer, I can now picture you sitting there in Bessie. 🙂 Have a great trip. xx
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Love all the pictures of the East Anglian villages. When we were kids and heading up to Norfolk for holidays, and before all the motorways, etc., we used to travel through all of these. Essex certainly improves as you get further north, and Suffolk great. You mentioned Heacham – if you Google thewildduck.net you will find the houseboat we used to go to every summer, on Heacham South Beach, and which at the time belonged to my mother’s cousin – it has had a considerable refurb and can now be rented – on my bucket list! I recently sent the owners some photos from the mid 1950s to 1960s of our holidays there.
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Just looked at their site – it looks fabulous! Must have cost quite a bit to re-furbish! I wonder how close it is to the large static caravan site though? Looking forward to meeting up and will email nearer the time.
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It is not near that at all – it is on the South Beach which is mainly designated a private area, and has many well spaced out beach houses, some almost on the beach and others at the back with a wide green area in between. The Wild Duck is right at the end of the South Beach and on the left hand side. Last time I went there, nothing much had changed, or any additional buildings. So quite remote from the static caravan area. Trying to describe how to find it (maybe for next time!) but as you get to the sea front area with The Wash in front of you, you would turn left rather than right towards Hunstanton and the tacky part of Heacham!
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At least Alfie enjoyed the walk! The cockles definitely make up for the weather – they were delicious!
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Back from my residential school trip and catching up with the blog. Brancaster Staithe is a fabulous place to keep warm, watch birds and eat fresh seafood – bliss!
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Sorry ALFIE!! Absolutely love travelling round with you two seeing such amazing houses, birds, views and Alfie having such fun.
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Thanks Margaret!
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